First Run!

Figured I would post this. This is the first run of the train around the layout. As you can see, this is from before I got the control panel wired into the table. I'm actually pretty pleased that it worked so well the first time, with very little modification.

5 Hours of Soldering and a Sore Neck...

It took a couple of weekends, but its finally done. All the wiring under the table and above the table (i.e. the control panel) is complete. Feeders wired into the bus (the red and black 12-gauge wire seen on the left), wiring to the switch motors and spur blocks (Cat5 wire). You'll also recognize the power supply that I made several posts ago feeding +5V and -5V to the control panel, and I decided to put the main AC switch (bottom of the picture) on the skirt of the table rather than in the control panel. This made me a lot more comfortable, not only by not having "high" AC voltage in with the low voltage control panel, but also made more sense from a cable routing standpoint.

The control panel was also fun to wire up. 6 dual-pole switches for each spur block, a single pole momentary switch for the turntable motor (but I don't have that yet), 7 LED's each with a current limiting resistor (that's what most of the heat-shrink tubing is for that you see), and four momentary buttons for the switch motors. All in all, it went together pretty well according to plan. I only wired in one LED backwards and mixed up two buttons -- fairly easy fixes.

But the biggest payoff for all of this work is the ability now to have a train run around the layout! Which of course I have done a few times now...

42ft of Track Later

Well I finally got around to laying all of the cork-bed and track. I'm actually pretty pleased with how it went. I ended up using a lot of pre-formed "snap track" for the curves and flex track for the straighter sections. This made my curves a lot more predictable, but I'm kind of wishing now that I used flex track more, as using the snap track everywhere means a lot of joints in the loop.

You'll notice there are some spurs off of the turn table that are missing, but these are to go inside the round-house which I have yet to get. Once the round-house is in place, then the track can be laid inside it.

I've also got all of the switch motors and wires in place, its just a matter of connecting up all the wires to something useful. I've got about 6 feeds from the track to underneath the table where I'll run around a 14- or 12- gauge wire for track bus. Copper wire makes a much better conductor than coated nickel track, so feeding the in multiple places from a copper bus should make the power distribution on the layout much more even.

Anyway, lots of wiring and soldering to do, especially on the control panel...

Now to drive the spikes...

Finally got all of the plastering done. (Thanks Danielle!) Unfortunately we didn't quite have enough to finish the lift out mountain piece - less than one square foot remains uncovered. I was a little disappointed with running out of plaster cloth with such a small area left to cover. I intend to simply cover it with plaster putty and see how that works out.

As you can see I have already started to lay some track. We did this while the table was out away from the wall and the back of the table was more accessible. Very difficult to lean over the table with how wide it is. Putting the table back into place was much easier than moving it away from the wall.

Although it was a little bit inconvenient I am glad that I put down the turntable before plastering that section because the Atlas turntable that I purchased accept 1/4 inch roadbed leading up to it. The cork-bed I am using is only 3/16 of an inch and so the plaster conveniently makes up the missing 1/16 of an inch.

I did have some debate as to whether or not use cork for roadbed as opposed to vinyl or foam rubber. I settled on cork because it was a known quantity -- the rail layouts I've made before I've used cork, and many people report that cork is just easier to work with than the other two popular choices. The deciding factor for me though was looking in the hobby store at Woodland Scenic's foam rubber roadbed product -- it just didn't look very prototypical in my opinion, at least not like the cork looks.

As far as attaching the cork to the table/plaster, I was thinking that a highly adhesive glue would be required, like PL Premium, but a lot of people recommended simple white or yellow carpenters glue. Although I had my doubts, I had to correct a section of cork that I laid with the white glue, and a somewhat significant portion of plaster came out with the cork which I ruined and ended up having to lay completely new cork.

Time to get our hands dirty

Well, at least Danielle's hands got dirty. I tried to stay out of the mess because Danielle had used the plaster cloth for crafts before. I was actually a little disappointed with how little two packages of the plaster cloth covered. Hopefully we will only need two more packages as the cloth is a little pricey.

You might notice that the table has been pulled out from the wall in order to better reach the backside. For those who remember putting the table in and the mishap with the window frame, it was quite "fun" getting it out of the corner. Despite this ordeal it really was for the best because it would have been rather difficult to make smooth edges otherwise or even to reach inside the tunnel to cover the track base. Suffice to say I think the window casing might have to come off to put the table back in place, or perhaps another set of hands.

As you can see above the two rolls of plaster cloth were able to cover most of the 3D features on the layout. We were also able to cover the back portion of the ground and around the bridge. The plaster cloth is fairly simple to work with if you have patience and a little finesse. The best technique was to wet the cloth and then add additional water once it was in place to spread the plaster. I recommend using latex gloves simply because it is difficult to spread the plaster when it dries on your fingers quickly. Plus you won't have to spend an hour washing it off your skin and nails.

Overall it has created a nice texture to cover later and we will eventually have a nice white canvas to start playing with. Thanks to the table height I'll certainly be nursing some back pain in the morning!

Goes on pink, dries white

So more DryDex. Its pretty good stuff to work with, other than its a little heavy, and in this type of application it doesn't seem to go very far. It took nearly two whole tubs to cover all seams on the layout. I'll probably need one more tub to finish up details (around tunnel portals, around the turntable, etc.).

In case its not obvious, the top of the "mountain" in the back corner is actually removable. It was essentially constructed from a 24x30" peice of foam, and then built on top of that. As the "base" piece of the mountain isn't actually glued or attached to the rest of the set, it lifts up fairly easily. That said, we'll see how easy it is once grass and trees make its way on to the mountain.

Now the fun begins...

Playing with plaster to make the hills look more like hills than cut up 1/2" foam! Just doing that section you see covered there used about half of the tub of DryDex, so I have a feeling I might need some more...

That said, Danielle has convinced me to use plaster cast (in the form of Woodland Scenics Plaster Cloth) for the track incline cover, so that should be fun too...